By nine in the evening the lamps along the ghat are down to a low orange line, and the loudest thing on the river is the water finding the stones. This quiet is not empty — it is tended. After the evening aarti, the families on Triveni Ghat fold their cots, the chai pots are washed, and the river is left to itself.
Loud evenings here do not last, because someone is always ready to lower their voice a little. Come with a group that talks over each other and the ghat will not scold you — it will simply grow quieter, until you notice you have stopped too. The silence is not a rule handed down. It is an atmosphere the whole town keeps, and anyone may borrow it for a few hours.